The rule comes from Debrett's, whose guide "Deconstructing Dress Codes" was verified in August 2026. A black tie dinner jacket is recognized by four details: black wool, single-breasted, no vents, silk peak lapels or a shawl collar. The bow tie is tied by hand, never pre-tied. Not to be confused with white tie, an even more formal code, which requires a black tailcoat with silk lapels worn open over a shirt fastened with removable dress studs.
On the ground, black tie is the code of the great galas. The amfAR Gala in Cannes presents itself this way in the foundation's press releases: a black tie event moving from cocktails to dinner, then a live auction led by Simon de Pury. In the same register, the Monaco Red Cross Gala requires formal gala dress: donors are expected from 7:45 pm in the Salle des Etoiles, dinner is served at 8:30 pm and admission is reserved for guests aged 7 and over. One last point of protocol, valid for all these evenings: every invitation calls for a prompt reply, acceptance or refusal, and going back on your word at the last minute is considered rude.